The Dreaded Sewing…

When I first started making amigurumi, I found the hardest part was the sewing. Sewing the head, arms, legs etc. on can be very tricky at first, but the more I did it the better I got and it usually doesn’t bother me now (usually!) – I also found that switching to a bent/curved-tip needle made it much easier… once I had got used to the needle.

Positioning is very important and it’s worth taking extra time to make sure the piece is where you want it to be. I will usually pin the piece on, then check from all angles that it’s where it should be and level with the other pieces – it never is at first so the unpinning and re-pinning goes on for some time and I quite often use a small tape measure too… When I’m happy with where it’s pinned I will sew very slowly checking that the piece is still pinned correctly and hasn’t moved slightly after every stitch. Like I said, it does take me a long time but it’s worth it in the end because wonky pieces can be noticeable and it’s difficult to unpick and start over once you’ve finished.

I now have a slightly different technique for each of the different pieces that I sew on that works for me, so no longer dread the sewing – but I still allow lots of time to do it!

I use this method for sewing on pieces where the top loops will be flat against the other piece, like ears that stand up, closed heads, legs and some tails:

*Once the piece is pinned, insert the needle into a stitch on the head just under where you want that bit of the ear to be attached*

*Insert the needle into both loops (on the ear) and pull the yarn through*

*Continue doing this all the way around the ear – you can just use one loop, but I prefer the way it looks with both loops*

*When you get back to where you started, fasten by making a knot…*

*Insert the needle back into the head just under the knot and bring it out an inch or so away*

Pull the yarn all the way through. Usually, *the small knot will be pulled down into the head a little, making it unnoticeab*le

*Squish the stuffing around until the end of the yarn goes inside the head and can no longer be seen*

*Or you can use your yarn needle just to move the stuffing a bit, hiding the yarn end*

I use the same method for back legs, closed heads and some tails

*Open heads are sewn on in the same way*, *but* *instead of using a stitch on the head*, *you can* *use the* *loops…*

If I want the edge of a flat piece to be a little more defined, or neater, I will sew the piece on using the back loop only, going anti-clockwise around – using this method, the front loop is untouched and visible after the sewing. I use this method sometimes for noses, muzzles, mouths (insert the needle through a stitch on the piece it’s being sewn onto, pull up through the back loop only of the stitch on the flat piece, pull tight and repeat all around)

For a piece that is hanging down, like a front leg (or sometimes an ear), make sure you have left the the top few rounds un-stuffed and line up the loops on the front and back of the leg before pinning onto the body:

(Right Handed:) *You should sew from right to left for a neat finish*

*If the tail is in the wrong place for you to start* *sewing right to left*…

*You can move it to where you want it to be; thread your yarn needle with the tail and insert it into the body (just underneath where it is attached to the leg)*

*Bring it out where you want to start your sewing*

*Insert the needle up through both loops on the back and the front of the leg*

*Insert the needle into a stitch on the body just under the next loops on th*e leg

*Bring the needle up through both loops on the back and the front of the* leg

When you get to the end, *insert your needle through to the front of the le*g…

*The inside of the leg should already be attached because you sewed through the loops at the front and back of the leg, but for an extra secure leg, sew all the way along the inside, too*

All finished!

Embroidery

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